Most Colombian tourists stay in Bocagrande, a beach resort just south of Old Town that's lined with aging high-rise Colombia apartment hotels and condos. But truth be told, the crowded beach there is less than alluring. Old Town, where everything is within walking distance, is more appealing.

At the high end is the Sofitel Santa Clara, which is ensconced in a magnificent 17th-century convent. The Santa Clara offers 19 colorful, antiques-filled suites in the colonial wing and tropical wood-and-white rooms in the Republican wing. Balconies overlook either the sea, Old Town or a courtyard inhabited by toucans. Rates for the 96 Republican-wing rooms, excluding taxes, range from 515,000 to 1,100,000 Colombian pesos (about $232 to $495, at 2,300 pesos to the U.S. dollar).

Another convent-turned-hotel is the 91-room Charleston Cartagena. It features two courtyards dotted with early colonial religious art, and a rooftop pool and restaurant that offer panoramic views of the city and coastline. Doubles start at 598,000 pesos.

Agua calls itself a bed-and-breakfast, but it feels like an exclusive boutique hotel with its photography-lined walls, well-stocked library and rooftop pool. The six rooms, furnished in tropical style, start at 497,000 pesos.

One of the newest hotels is the lovely Casa La Fe. Opened last year by an Englishman, Geoff Chew, and his Cartagenian wife, Carmen Marrugo, it is an affordable and comfortable hotel built around a small courtyard and a rooftop dipping pool. The 11 double rooms start at 150,000 to 220,000 pesos, depending on the season, and include hot breakfast and Wi-Fi access. Casa La Fe, as well as Agua, offer a private boat for island hopping.

WHERE TO EAT
Seafood is the name of the game here, whether it is steamed, grilled, smothered in coconut sauce or poached in a Colombian stew known as sancocho. The city's culinary star is the nuevo-Caribbean El Santísimo, where innovative cuisine is served in a glorious courtyard decorated with contemporary folk art. The chef and owner, Federíco Vega, applies Cordon Bleu techniques to Caribbean ingredients like coconut, plantains and coriander. Try the mustardy salmon ceviche (11,000 pesos), the delicate coconut-broth fish soup (10,000 pesos), or the sautéed shrimp in a mango or tamarind sauce (30,000 pesos). Save room for the mango mousse in an all-butter pastry shell (8,000 pesos).

Restaurante Donde Olano adds French-Creole flair to fish in a cozy bistro with eclectic art and romantic guitar serenades. Try the Camarones Olano, sautéed shrimp served with four sauces, including caramelized passion fruit (32,000 pesos). No credit cards accepted.